It takes a while to get over the jet lag and adjust to the long days when it seemingly never gets dark. But once I did, the wonders of summer in Scotland began to unfold. Other than a trip to Alaska, I can’t remember teeing off after dinner and playing 18 holes with time to spare.

Here’s a rundown of the golf I’ve played so far. There has been plenty of sightseeing and relaxing in between with my girlfriend Kim, who spent the first part of the trip with me. Exploring St. Andrews and not playing golf can be just as fun as a round on The Old Course with the right companion!

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June 30
LEVEN LINKS

A quirky little links course right next to Lundin Links. Both have hosted qualifying for The Open Championship. I played with two enjoyable members. I needed a translator at times. Leven’s finishing hole may be the most challenging par-4’s I’ve played in Scotland, about 420 yards with a water-filled burn in front of the green (similar to St. Andrew’s famous Swilken Burn). Both have large metal ball retrievers lying by their side for good reason.

July 1 
ELIE SPORTS CLUB

A fun and well-maintained 9-holer right next to The Golf House Club, this course is enjoyed by young and old, and almost everyone seems to bring their four-legged friends as well. I wanted to see what it was like to play at 9:00 pm, so I went around and enjoyed the glow of the sun “almost” setting.

July 3 morning
ANSTRUTHER GOLF CLUB

I immediately captioned Anstruther, “The craziest nine-hole course I fell in love with at first sight.” After climbing a steep hill to the first green, a plateau of link holes offers gorgeous views of the Firth of Forth. But it isn’t until you hit the famous 5th - a blind 230-yard par-3 - that you realize what a special place Anstruther is. I can only imagine the matches that have occurred here over the years. I went around once and grabbed a quick to-go sandwich because I needed to get to St. Andrews in time for my 16:30 tee time.

July 3 afternoon
THE OLD COURSE

After being selected from the “singles draw” that day, I arrived at the large parking lot with just 20 minutes to spare. I didn’t dare risk my tee time being given away, so I jogged to the first tee with my clubs on, clutching the sandwich for dear life. I was paired with three Americans; everyone I saw teeing off or coming off the course was from the USA. One of them was celebrating an ace on the 8th hole. It’s £330 to play these days (over $400), which I didn’t mind except for the late tee time and 5-hour round. It’s a dangerous course when golfers are on every hole. One of the caddies in the group – a 25-year veteran – has been struck by balls 44 times. Still, it’s my favorite course in the world. If the scene around the parallel first and 18th holes doesn’t get your juices flowing, you better check your pulse.

July 7 morning
CHARLETON GOLF CLUB

The first of my back-to-back 36-hole days started with a spur-of-the-moment round at a parkland course close to Elie. I hoped to discover a hidden gem at Charleton, but it needs some TLC after its clubhouse burned down and bunkers were washed out by Fife’s wettest winter in years. But this course has excellent bones. The views over fields and out to the Firth of Forth are outstanding. The sheep grazing in the farmlands were loud enough to distract me on my backswing, in a strange way that provides an internal laugh during the microseconds of your transition from top to impact. The thick heather was a pretty purple, A decent value at £50.

July 7 afternoon
DUMBARNIE LINKS

 

Talk about contrast. My second round of the day was of the newest course in Fife, Dumbarnie Golf Links. I’ve seen lots of people wearing logo gear from Dumbarnie – that’s a good sign because you don’t buy stuff in the golf shop from courses you don’t love. Ryder Cupper and course designer Clive Clark (England) developed and designed Dumbarnie. I enjoyed what he did there, and the contrast of going from the older links courses to a new one added some nice variety to my trip. Dumbarnie doesn’t feel like it’s been there 100 years, but nothing about Dumbarnie feels contrived. The advantages of modern design are in full effect - there’s a “big” feeling to the massive piece of real estate that includes a top-notch clubhouse restaurant. The service was impeccable, and Dumbarnie has one of the rarities in links golf - a full-length driving range a short walk from the first tee. The par-3’s were highlights for me, as was the dram of Loch Lomond whiskey served on the first tee.

July 8 morning
THE GOLF HOUSE CLUB - ELIE

Another 36-hole day started at The Golf House Club in Elie, one of my favorites in Scotland. I played with two members of the Earlsferry Thistle Club, which shares the links course with The Golf House Club. (They have a more modest clubhouse along the 18th fairway.) This isn’t uncommon in Scotland.  Derek owns the Station House Buffet and Tavern in town, so it should be no surprise that I got to know him during my 12-day stay there. He was nice enough to invite me to join him and his friend Kevin for their weekly Monday 8:04 tee time. A detailed review and video of Elie’s links course is coming. Suffice it to say that picking Elie for an extended stay wasn’t happenstance. I simply love the course. It wasn’t so much designed as it unfolded. 5-time Open champ James Braid designed hundreds of courses, but the one he learned the game on was there long before he was born. The day was the nicest I’ve had in Scotland, and we played in 3 ½ hours. We got played through by four gents playing a proper foursomes match, with the partner walking out front to be ready to hit the next shot. The Scots know how to do golf!

July 8 afternoon
PANMURE GOLF CLUB

After lunch at The 19th Hole (a bar and restaurant not owned by the club that sits right across from the 2nd fairway) I headed north, bypassing St. Andrews and crossing the Tay Bridge into Angus, setting out to discover a legendary parkland golf course in Carnoustie. I would love to play Carnoustie’s more famous links, which I’ve often watched on TV.  (Who can forget Jean van de Velde standing with his hands on his waist and pants rolled up in the Barry Burn on No. 18 on his way to the agony of defeat?) But I didn’t set out on this journey to just play the big Open Rota courses – there will be a time for that. On this fine afternoon, my car took a left at the roundabout and another right and found Panmure Golf Club, where Ben Hogan spent weeks practicing before The Open. He even recommended that the club put a little pot bunker to the front right of his favorite hole (No. 6), and they did so. It is forever known as “Hogan’s Bunker,” a sign that tells the story of the bunker and Hogan’s time there is a nice touch. I loved everything about Panmure. It’s one of the finest parkland courses I’ve ever played.

July 9 noon
THE GOLF HOUSE CLUB - ELIE

I came back for one more round at Elie the following day, and by the time I got to the third hole, all the rain gear was on. The wind was blowing sideways before I finished the front nine. I shot six shots higher than my previous round and felt like I played better. That sums up golf in Scotland. A fun moment unfolded as I approached the 17th tee, drenched and trying to finish the round. Two members were turning around and heading in. I invited them to join me. After their rushed tee shots, they found the tall grass, then headed diagonally for The 19th Hole - not the one in the clubhouse but the one along the course. It confirmed what I thought when I first saw the place - ‘how many golfers have decided not to play the 18th’ and headed straight to this fun hangout?’ Knowing I was determined to finish, they invited me to come by after I holed out. Said Iain, after asking me what I was drinking,  “Walk back up eighteen when you’re done. We’ll have one waiting for you.”

Stay tuned for more from Scotland as I report on attending both the Scottish and British Opens, playing Prestwick and Glasgow Gailes, then heading to Campbeltown to compete in a tournament at Machrahinish Dunes.

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